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Lunch Review
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The Beachcomber

By Tina BorgattaPublished: September 01, 2010

The great thing about the beach this time of year is that the crowds are gone, and you don’t have to wait quite so long for a seat at The Beachcomber in Crystal Cove.
   
I love this place. It’s on the sand. You can hear the waves crashing just a few feet away. And you can feel the cool ocean breeze on your face and the sand between your toes – or in your shoes, if you’re coming from work, which was exactly the case for me.
   
I wanted to try some of The Beachcomber’s new menu items, and two things, in particular, caught my eye: the Shrimp Veracruz and the Hana Ranch Skewers. The Shrimp Veracruz is a great starter. Dozens of bite-size bay shrimp fill a martini glass. The tiny shellfish are dressed in a mildly spicy cocktail sauce (I tasted just a hint of Tabasco), with diced avocado and tomato, and a lime wedge. It’s a generous helping, so there’s plenty to share.
   
I was expecting the Hana Ranch Skewers to be marinated in some type of teriyaki-style sauce. (Maybe the “Hana” conjured images of Hawaii in my mind.) Nope.
   
The medallions of skirt steak carry a savory char-grilled flavor that is so, so delightful – like meat cooked at a beach barbecue. The morsels are partnered with chunks of fresh pineapple and short spears of green onion. Two skewers are served over a bed of sweet potato fries, with a side of papaya mustard.
   
I love the sweet taste of summer.

Where: 15 Crystal Cove, Newport Beach
Phone: 949.376.6900
Web: thebeachcombercafe.com

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