ADVENTURE
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Bret and Chad Van Roden's voyage of the broken compassPublished: February 01, 2011
January 2011 blog from the Broken Compass
FAREWELL TO PAGO PAGO
Bret headed back on a whirlwind U.S. and Mexico tour as Makai and I (Chad) manned the boat. The "rainy season" is aptly named, but it did not deter several excursions and island tours. Two palangi teines (white girls) named Christin and Alice were companions and acted as tour guides on the island.
We went kayaking in Pala Lagoon, a marshland that looks as though it was transplanted from the Florida everglades. There is a beautiful hike and protected area called Palangi beach on the west side with a good break for surfing. “Sliding Rocks” has tidal pools, where we lounged for hours drinking Vailima (a local beer) until sunset.
We caught barracuda (above), trevally, tuna, and a native worm called Pololo (below), the caviar of Samoa. They emerge one night every year from the coral to be caught by eager fishermen. I took a few trips on a local Samoan boat. The Pololo harvest was poor this year, but it didn't slow down the laughter and drinking, which continued well into the morning.
A local bar/dance club called Oceans opened across the street from the marina (below). The managers, E and Vanessa, are the kindest Samoans I’d met “on island.” We spent several nights exchanging stories and learning about Samoan traditions, business and political practices on the island. Another friend and qualified mechanic helped install the engine we’d had shipped from Minnesota. The engine was damaged in transit and we ended up building the current one (or just the short block) from scratch. As we leave Samoa for Tonga, the engine still does not work (we just shipped a new starter). We are pressed for time to meet a friend from Norway who is flying to Tonga to for Christmas. So we will leave for Tonga in typical Broken Compass fashion: 325 miles, no engine, no wind, no autopilot. Pray for wind!
| Bret and Chad Van Roden's voyage of the broken compassPublished: February 01, 2011 |
January 2011 blog from the Broken Compass
FAREWELL TO PAGO PAGO
Bret headed back on a whirlwind U.S. and Mexico tour as Makai and I (Chad) manned the boat. The "rainy season" is aptly named, but it did not deter several excursions and island tours. Two palangi teines (white girls) named Christin and Alice were companions and acted as tour guides on the island.
We went kayaking in Pala Lagoon, a marshland that looks as though it was transplanted from the Florida everglades. There is a beautiful hike and protected area called Palangi beach on the west side with a good break for surfing. “Sliding Rocks” has tidal pools, where we lounged for hours drinking Vailima (a local beer) until sunset.
We caught barracuda (above), trevally, tuna, and a native worm called Pololo (below), the caviar of Samoa. They emerge one night every year from the coral to be caught by eager fishermen. I took a few trips on a local Samoan boat. The Pololo harvest was poor this year, but it didn't slow down the laughter and drinking, which continued well into the morning.
A local bar/dance club called Oceans opened across the street from the marina (below). The managers, E and Vanessa, are the kindest Samoans I’d met “on island.” We spent several nights exchanging stories and learning about Samoan traditions, business and political practices on the island. Another friend and qualified mechanic helped install the engine we’d had shipped from Minnesota. The engine was damaged in transit and we ended up building the current one (or just the short block) from scratch. As we leave Samoa for Tonga, the engine still does not work (we just shipped a new starter). We are pressed for time to meet a friend from Norway who is flying to Tonga to for Christmas. So we will leave for Tonga in typical Broken Compass fashion: 325 miles, no engine, no wind, no autopilot. Pray for wind!
Bret headed back on a whirlwind U.S. and Mexico tour as Makai and I (Chad) manned the boat. The "rainy season" is aptly named, but it did not deter several excursions and island tours. Two palangi teines (white girls) named Christin and Alice were companions and acted as tour guides on the island.
We went kayaking in Pala Lagoon, a marshland that looks as though it was transplanted from the Florida everglades. There is a beautiful hike and protected area called Palangi beach on the west side with a good break for surfing. “Sliding Rocks” has tidal pools, where we lounged for hours drinking Vailima (a local beer) until sunset.
