After leaving from Bora Bora we decided to stop at an island along the way. We had heard of an isolated atoll called Suwarrow (below). Famously described in Tom Neale's book "An Island to Oneself," the atoll appealed to the secluded live-off-the-land lifestyle we had been seeking.
Currently two rangers manage the area, which is now a territory of New Zealand. We pulled into the anchorage to see several familiar yachts, friends, and two big men placed to oversee the island. Apii and James (below) are not your typical park rangers.
They were placed six months prior for a nine-month contract to survive, prevent poaching, and collect dues from visiting yachts. They take people out spearfishing and organize potlucks for all of the visiting yachts.
With plans of a two-day visit, we ended up spending two weeks. Survival on an island like Suwarrow is not difficult. There are coconuts, coconut crabs, lobster and every type of fish imaginable. We took group coconut crab and lobster hunting trips. Thick brush, swarms of wasps, and big claws protect the delicious coconut crabs. The "lucky" few returned with a hunting souvenir, courtesy of the wasps...
At least the hunters were able to eat an incredible meal...